Nonna shows up at quarter to eleven. She greets me and asks how it's going; I address her informally, which is probably a faux pas, but I haven't yet figured out how to navigate the vast world of formality and informality in the Italian language. She does her cooking and bustles around the house, and by 11:30 we're out the door, on our way to the city center. Nonna speaks no English, so this is full immersion. I smile and nod as she insists that I tell her when I don't understand her (foreshadowing, folks). Oh and by the way, no pictures yet, guys. Spend 15 minutes with Nonna and you'll understand why that was impossible. Bologna is a warm city, full of reds and oranges. You'd think that all those shady portici would make it dark and gloomy, but it ain't so; light filters through the arches, Piazza Maggiore is awash in sun and students, and someone's playing lively jazz nearby. Our first stop is the Palazzo d'Accursio, which holds the Ci...
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